Where to Go: Olkhon Island on Baikal Lake

Olkhon is a beautiful nude land that seems to have emerged from the fresh waters of Baikal. The surface of the island is green and smooth like meadows, and crumbles down in Baikal in rocky cliffs on the edges.

A view on Olkhon island

A rock on Olkhon island

cruise. If you choose the bus option in peak season, better reserve your ticket a few weeks in advance at the bus station in Irkutsk, or arrange to make trip with a travel company, as the busses get full in advance.

Travelling to Olkhon island from Irkutsk:
The information about it is quite scattered: there are a few companies offering this service, but here's the information for Summer 2006:

Option 1: Comfortable 45-seat Bus.
Daily bus Irkutsk - Khuzhir departs in front of Angara hotel at 9.00 on Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday. You are lucky, because 2nd July is Sunday.
The way back -- the same bus departs on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays at 12.45 from the local "Gastronom" grocery shop (at the biz plaza). Again, you're lucky, because the 8th of July is Saturday. You will even have a chance to party before you go on that train.
The whole trip takes 8 hours. The bus makes a few stops at local cafes along the way, so no need to take any food with you (unless you are vegetarian).
The price is 450R ($15). If you want to book it, make a request through Way to Russia Support Center and we will try to do it for you.
Angara hotel -- where the bus departs from -- can be found here at our Irkutsk accommodation guide. -- there's a link to the map from the description, it's in the center, so you'll have a few hours to see Irkutsk as well.

Option 2: Private Buses and Minivans from the Train Station
Sometimes there are also a few private buses and minivans departing from the train station. Usually they also depart around 9.00am and you'll notice them -- they usually have a paper with OLKHON (éθ›ÓÌ) written at their front window. The price is the same -- 450R ($15)
The way back is much easer: go to Nikita's homestay and book a minivan back. He has a few every day, so no problem if you book when you arrive.

Option 3: Taking a standard bus from the bus station
The tickets are usually sold out long beforehand. However, if you want to check out Siberian bus travel extreme style, this is for you. Daily 8.10am and 350R ($12) one way + 50R ($2) for your luggage.

Option 4: Get a taxi
A 6- or 8-seater can be ordered through a travel agency and usually costs $250 US one way. So, more expensive, but you can stop where you want along the way.

The way back (Olkhon-Irkutsk) is easier: just go 1-2 days before your departure to Nikita Bencharov's homestay in Khuzhir (everybody knows him in Olkhon), and book your trip.

Since June 2004 there's a new registration and tourist information point is opened at Olkhon island. Any tourist can get an advice on where to travel at Olkhon area as well as purchase a map of the area.


The Landmarks of Olkhon Island:

The main places on Olkhon island, that you will not miss, are Khuzhir — the main village, about 20 km from the ferry, Shaman cave — a sacred place in Khuzhir, on the shore of Baikal lake, beaches and yurt-camps, which are about 4 km from Khuzhir, Peschanaya village — a strange abandoned settlement, "Three Brothers" rock, and mysterious and enchanting Khoboy Cape — the northest point of the island.

Khuzhur is the main village on Olkhon island. There are a few thousands inhabitants, and it is quite a calm place. All shops and little cafes are located

Khuzhir village on Olkhon island

near the main square of the village, and you can buy everything you may need there: from bread, water, juices, and beers, to fresh vegetables and fruits, milk, cheese, and crops. There are a few tourbases at the village, where you could stay, but it's much more interesting to be at one of the many homestays. Perhaps, the most popular ones are "At Svetlana's" and Nikita Bencharov's Usadba (of which I'll talk about later).
There's no particalr bus station, but all the buses depart from "Svetlana's" homestay, you can also buy tickets there (buy at least 3 days in advance!).
In fact, Khuzhir is only interesting for practical things, shops, and if you want to stay in a comfortable homestay. Baikal lake is about 5-10 minute walk, depending where you are.
Some people offer vegetables for sale from their garden. Look out for notes and announcements on the streets. Every sunday there's a market on the main street, where local people say cheap Chinese clothes.
Khuzhir village at Olkhon / Practicalities:
There are many food shops on the main square, most of them are opened 9.00 to 23.00.
There's a new and very cheap bed and breakfast located on the main square of Kuzhir village (just look out for the big blue B&B sign). A bed costs 150 R ($5), accommodation is very basic, but clean. (Baikalskaya st., #48-1 - Kozlov Konstantin).
However, Nikita Bencharov's homestay is still the best for a comfortable stay, while the Yurt Camps 5 km further from Khuzhir are the best choice for those who want more wilderness.
Phone: On Olkhon island there are no landlines. The satellite phone is available at two places: Nikita Bencharov's B&B (70R - $2.3 per minute) and "Harmony" yurt-camp (5 km from Khuzhir, next to Kharantsy village) for 100R ($3.3) per minute.

Shaman cave is a sacred place in Khuzhir, on the shore of Baikal lake. It is believed to have supernatural powers by Shamans, but as it is the main tourist attraction, it became quite spoiled.

Beaches and Yurt-Camps. About 4 km from Khuzhir along the road there are beaches and yurt camps. The beaches are open to everybody, so there a many tourists coming there by car for Summer, but the place is so vast, they

A Beach on Olkhon island

don't seem to disturb each other. There are also two yurt camps, run by a travel agency, open from June until end August. You can either get a bed in yurt for $10 to $25 / night, or rent a tent for $5 per night.
If you feel like staying alone, you can find a secluded spot along the lake, and enjoy Robinson's life. There's a village in about 2 km from there, where you can buy vegetables, milk, and eggs from locals (there are no shops). Alternatively, you can buy some food or even a meal in a yurt-camp (served 3 times a day, costs about $3 for a meal), or you can walk to Khuzhir (about 1 hour), and buy some stuff in the shops.

Peschanaya village is quite far from Khuzhir, but you can get there by car. It is an abandoned place, and in the Soviet times there used to be a fish factory where prisoners worked. Nowadays, there is only a bridge and two houses left from it, and the rest is covered by the sand. Also, when we were there, I found an aeroplane engine on the ground.
It's a very mysterious, nice, and spooky place. If you take any tour along Olkhon, you'll pass it, and stop there for about 20 minutes.

Three Brothers rock is a must-stop for every tour around the Island. The three rocks standing in a row overlooking Baikal lake. The old Buryatian legend

The Three Brothers Rock

explains their appearance. In the old times there lived three brothers. Their father was a very powerful entity and he turned his sons into eagles. They were enjoying the freedom to flight where they want and thanked their father for that. However, he told his sons that by no means they should eat dead meat. The sons promised not to do that, but once, when they were flying above the island, they were very hungry, and found a dead animal. Despite their vow, they ate this dead animal. When their father learned about it, he was very furious, and to punish his sons he turned them into three rocks.

Khoboy Cape. This is the most northern point of Olkhon island. The road terminates 1 km before, and you should walk to get there. The cape is a very beautiful spot, you can see the lake all around you, red cliffs, seagulls, and sometimes, if you're lucky,

Khoboy Cape view on the Island

even Baikal seals. The big rock stands out, and you can walk round it, go down a steep path (be careful - it may be dangerous), and swim next to dark caves. It is a very magic and intimidating and exciting feeling at the same time. On top, the stones are piled together, and a totem is erected on the very end of the cape. It’s a very contemporary totem, featuring all kind of man made objects, which people left to remind their passage.

What to Do at Olkhon Island:

1. Rent a Bike
You can rent a bike at Nikita's for 300R ($10) per day. It will be a nice experience even though the bikes are not in a very good condition. The bike manager Artur speaks English and German and can show you the bike

Biking on Olkhon island

routes along the island. You can also hire him as a guide for $10 a day.

2. Rent a Kayak
Kayaks can be rented from the Yurt-Camp that's located 5 km north from Khuzhir village. The Kayaks are quite good for the lake and it will be an unforgettable experience to see the shore from the lake's side. One day is 500R ($17) or $3 per hour.

3. Rent a Motorbike
Can be done at Nikita's, the price is 1000R (30) per day.

Where to Stay on Olkon Island:
You can either stay in Khuzhir, which is more practical for comfortable living, shops, organized trips, and buses to Irkutsk, or in the felt-yurt camps, that are about 4 km from Khuzhir.
Officially, there are about twn tour bases at Olkhon: Bencharov's Usadba guesthouse, Shamanka tourbase, Solnechnaya tourbase, Svetlana, Zhemchuzhina (all in Khuzhir, the best is Bencharov's one), a yurt camp next to Kharantsy village (on the shore of Baikal lake), and a summer camp for active fishermen near Khalgai area.

Nikita Bencharov's Usad'ba. This is simply the best place to stay in Khuzhir. Nikita, a former champion in table-tennis, runs it with his wife, and the place features a few houses with rooms in Russian style. The accommodation is very comfortable and clean. There is also an eating

Nikita's Bed & Breakfast

place, where you can try delicious Baikal specials made by a very good cook.
A single room costs $20, a bed in a double room costs $15. Three meals a day are provided (for $3).
Nikita also runs Olkhon information center, where you can get maps, postcards, souvenirs, and book any kind of trip on the island. Usually a 1-day tour costs about $70 for a car (so, if you are 7 people, it can be as little as $10 per person).
There is also the only phone on the whole island (it is satellite, in fact). A call is about $2 per minute.
Russian steam-sauna is available for $1 an hour for a person.
Nikita is often fully booked, but even if he doesn't have a space, he will accommodate you with his neighbours.
Contact: Irkutsk Region, Olkhon area, Khuzhir, Kirpichnaya St., 8. Everybody on Olkhon knows where to find Nikita, so just ask any local. Alternatively, you can send him a message directly - click here

Svetlana’s Guesthouse. A homestay in Khuzhir village. Accommodation 300 R ($10) a day per person. Breakfast 30 R ($1) served from 8 to 10, dinner 60 R ($2) served from 13 to 15, supper 60 R ($2) served from 19 to 20. There you can also buy homemade cheese and milk as well as popular smoked Omul fish.
Russian Banya for 30 R ($1) an hour for a person.
If there’s no place at Svetlana’s available, she’ll accommodate you at her neighbours’ houses.
Address: Irktusk region, Olkhon area, Lesnaya St., 28.

There are a few tourbases in Khuzhir, but none of them really worths attention.

There are two yurt-camps on the island, operated June-August, located about 4 km from Khuzhir, and 2 km from each other. The first one, "Fun" camp is a more student and backpacker like, while the other one - called "Harmony" camp - is for families, and older people, those, who like more comfort.

"Fun" Yurt-Camp. Yurt camp on the shore of Baikal lake (4 km from Khuzhir, on the shore of Baikal lake). Accommodation in yurts. Each yurt has 4 beds and a heater inside. The toilets and showers are outside. The

A yurt on Olkhon island

open-air bar. Usually,you share the yurt with other travelers (4 beds in each).
A bed costs $14 per night.
The friendly staff serves nice meals every day (breakfast - $2, dinner - $3, supper - $3).
Most of the tourists are from Germany and the US.
Organize tours to Khoboi cape (2000 R = $70), to the hot springs (3500 R = $115). Russian Banya (sauna) for 180 R ($6) an hour (no matter how many people).
Tents for rent for 100 R ($3) a day per person.
Advanced reservations are recommended.
To book, please, contact the operator - GreenExpress company - click here

"Harmony" Yurt-Camp. Also located on the shore of the lake, features single- and double yurts, so you don't have to share accommodation with anybody (the price is also higher). There are also separate showers and toilets for every yurt.
To reserve, please, contact the operator - GreenExpress company - click here