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Just Returned from St Petersburg - my impression of the city
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MrSpice
Lounge Wizard


Joined: 14 Jul 2003
Posts: 3431

PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2005 5:06 pm    Post subject: Just Returned from St Petersburg - my impression of the city Reply with quote

I have not been to St Petersburg for almost 11 years. So, for me last week's visit was kind of special. So here are my quick impressions:

1) The city improved tremendously. The landmarks are lit up at night, there are hundreds of great cafes, restaurants and stores with good service, reasonable prices and good decor. I was especially glad to see and visit many new cafes in St Petersburg offering great deserts and coffee (my favorite russian desert is "Kartoshka" which in Russian means "Potato" - it is called like that because it looks like a potato - round, dark-brown, but it's made of chocolat and flour and is very tasty). Most cafes now offer cappucino and fresh squeezed juices which was very nice. "Elki Palki" on Nevsky Pr. offeres great russian food. I wish I could find mashroom soup like that one anywhere in New York.

2) People are rather friendly. Most young people are dressed like an average American in New York. All this talk of dressing "russian" in dark clothing and shoes so not to stick out does not apply to the center of St Petersburg because lots of people wear sneakers, jeans, colorful shirts and other modern clothing (no baseball caps, though)

3) White nights are wonderful. The city looks beautiful - better than ever probably.

4) Even more remote areas have developed quite a bit. I visited an area where I used to live near metro station "Akademicheskaya". There are several new shopping centers nearby, several cafes and a huge casino.

5) Instead of figuring out how to use my cell phone, I bought a new cheap Siemens cell phone by "Megafon" for about $60 and used it while I was in St Petersburg. The only thing - in the cell service they asked me to register my visa in my US Passport before they set me up with a new phone number.

6) Registration was a breeze at the hotel. It took them 15 min or so.

7) I did carry my passport with me at all times in a hidden pocket/wallet under my pants, but no one ever asked for it. I took metro several times and walked around many parts of the city.

Cool One negative thing about the city is that the air is quite polluted with exhaust and fumes, especially in the center. There are also lots of cars on the street today. The drivers are not always mindful of people crossing the street. So obey traffic signs and be careful when you cross the road in St Petersburg, especially in the center.

Any questions, let me know.

Thanks!
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traceymill
Lounge Lizard


Joined: 05 Apr 2005
Posts: 84
Location: chicago il

PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2005 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like you had a wonderful time! So I am wondering how much do you think a normal person would spend on meals a day?? (not too cheap, but not luxury either, normalne) And also, how was the weather? If I remember, short sleeves sre fine during day but you want to bring a jacket for evening? Thanks! I leave in two weeks, can't wait!!! Laughing
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MrSpice
Lounge Wizard


Joined: 14 Jul 2003
Posts: 3431

PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2005 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would say that prices in a competitive/good establishements are close to those in the US, maybe a little less. In a cafe, a desert and a cappucino ran me around 90 rubles (about $3). At "Elki Palki" - russian-style restaurant on Nevsky Pr. - the meal would cost you about $15 or so (try russian "Kvas" there - it's a drink made from break crumbs, it's just great). Fresh squeezed orange juice was 100 rubles (about $3.5).

It was normally around 65-71 F during the day, with ocassional rain and showers, and the temperature would drop to about 50F at night). The weather changed quickly. It was sunny one moment and then it would start raining. Usually, July is the hotest month in St Petersburg. When I say "heat", I am not talking about Texas heat, of course. But the temperatures can reach 80F on a good day. So, don't dress too warm. Bring with you a jacket (I wore a jeans jacket on top of my t-shirt) and an umbrella. Bring a very light rain coat with you if you like and you should be OK. I highly recommend the hidden pocket for your passport. Here is the one I bought:

http://www.travelcountry.com/shop/Action/Vendor_Prod/ProdId/411/RefId/29/RefType/Affiliate
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MrSpice
Lounge Wizard


Joined: 14 Jul 2003
Posts: 3431

PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2005 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another addition regarding prices: I invited 4 of my friends to eat at "Magrib", a popular restaurant located on Nevsky 84. The decor of this restaurant has persian/mid-eastern feel, but the selection of food is diverse - from traditional russian dishes, to sushi. It's considered to be rather pricy by St Petersburg standards. I paid $110 + tip for 4 people. We did not order any wine, but we ordered salads, main courses, deserts and non-alcoholic drinks. Again, most cafe-type establishements would cost you less.

By the way, there's a great internet cafe called "Cafe Max" on Nevsky 90 that is open 24 hours a day. You can also buy cheap calling cards there to call the US. I bought the one for $5. It has almost 1 hour talk time for calls to the US (although it charges some small amount for each connection, I think).

If you take a taxi from the airport, just offer $20-22 if you are going to the center and say you have no more money (better yet, exchange the money and offer 500-600 rubles). I paid 600 rubles to the taxi driver that took me from my Nevsky hotel from Pulkovo 2, and he was very happy. He only asked for 500 rubles. I know they pretend the prices are higher if you don't speak Russian. So, know the real prices.
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MikeFlorida
Frequent Guest


Joined: 26 Mar 2005
Posts: 12
Location: Orlando Florida USA

PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2005 5:50 pm    Post subject: I agree w/spice Reply with quote

Great review Mr S and i agree on all counts. A city of 5 million that has no catalytic converters on cars and still uses leaded gas privides little clean air. Ive decided to stay outside town at a dacha this summer.

Last year a Rf friend convinced me I should dress in dark colors etc(like "russians") and the day I did it I was the ONLY one dressed somberly. Russians dress well, colorfully and fashionably. I broke out my tropical shirts(I am from Florida) and university attire and was both relaxed and well recieved the rest of my 2 months stay.

The only thing is..I often had to decline to go into some places(my choice) like Kazan, the synogogue and a few others in shorts..out of respect. Long pants are better no doubt;-)

As for food(tracymill) if you are carefull and maybe shop in grocerystores for lunch stuff like sandwiches etc you can eat also in restaurants and get by very well. An average day was 6-$10 if I was being thrifty.

There are a number of inexpensive restaurants..and though I never eat there at HOME I admit to leaning on McDonalds for a cheap burger/fries/shake fix. Fact is, there is PLENTY of cheap and good Russian food...but a RoyalMac(what they call a Big Mac) looked more appealing in SPB than in USA..go figure;-)
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MrSpice
Lounge Wizard


Joined: 14 Jul 2003
Posts: 3431

PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2005 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I was talking about clothes, I mean New York City type of clothing - i.e., jeans/sneakers/shoes on a normal day and dark pants/shoes if you go out. I don't think you'd look like everyone else if you wear colorful shorts like the ones people wear on the beach in Florida Smile)) this is Europe after all. I don't think you can go into a Sinagogue or a Cathedral in America in your shorts either. I think they will probably kick your ass in that case Smile
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reen
Frequent Guest


Joined: 10 Feb 2005
Posts: 15

PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2005 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i'm in st petersburg at the moment (actually sitting in the cafemax internet cafe that mr spice recommended). i will post full impressions of the city when i get back to london, but, in the meantime, i just wanted to say that you must've all been on crack for the duration of your trip to say that the russians dress well! it's true that people generally wear light and bright colours in the summer, but the actually 'fashions' on display are truly the worst kind of late 80s/early 90s trainwreck. picture three types of denim in a single outfit, with horrible bleach patterns and all-too-obvious bling-bling branding (though, mind you, not the real thing). camel-toes galore! (and not just on the women, either...) lots of engrish-type slogans on t-shirts. lost of shiny things, sequins, mesh fabrics, tassles. it seems that the fatter the woman, the more flesh is on display. ew. and i'm not even gonna start on the 4-inch stilletto heels worn in supermarkets, on walks through the park, etc.

the food is good, though, and the beer is cheap and drinkable. the sun is shining.

more later.
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MrSpice
Lounge Wizard


Joined: 14 Jul 2003
Posts: 3431

PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2005 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am not a fasion expert. When I said that Russians dress well, I meant they look modern, especially young people, and especially in the center. And often foreigners don't even stand out in the crowd. Few years ago you could easily spot a foreigner walking down Nevski Prospect. Not anymore. I see that you fasion taste is very refined. I live in New York where people dress in all kind of crap. My favorite slothes in the summer is a nice short-sleeve shirt, jeans or shirts and nice airy pair of sneakers.
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init6
WayToRussified


Joined: 01 Jun 2005
Posts: 363
Location: Москва, Россия

PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2005 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not like the British are the kings of fashion, either! Laughing

What's the temperature like in summer in Spb? I ask purely out of jealously since the air conditioner in my house crapped out and it's almost 90F (30F+) inside my house right now. Mad
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cyndy22
Lounge Wizard


Joined: 15 Oct 2004
Posts: 1076
Location: massachusetts

PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2005 3:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also just returned from St. Petersburg followed by Tallinn, Estonia, Saarameea, (nice island in Estonia) and Helsinki. Weather was great everywhere, SPB being the warmest with humidity but quite decent. We enjoyed the city, loved the ambiance of the bridges, canals and architecture. Traffic is horrendous and driving is suiciide if you are not accustommed. There does not seem to be many enforced traffic rules and it is very challenging to make left turns often. Alsp people park just about anywhere, like Italy! It is a bustling city. I do think it is rather expensive however for the quality regarding hotels for one example. We stayed at Hotel Mosbva near Alexandwer Nevsky. Our room was very small, no air conditioning and service was poor. Disappointing for the price.

All of the sites that tourists wish to visit have significant increases in ticket prices for non Russians. And further if for example one want to visit Peterhoff, One must pay for several tickets to see the lower grounds, the palace, the smaller museums etc. In fact I was struck by the fact that SPB is very money hungry.

We ere fortunate to have our friend Natasha meet us at our hotel each day with her Lada and drive to various sites in and around the city. She is one of the kindest and compassionate persons I have ever met and this was our 1st encounter. Marrinsky Theatre was quite wonderful. We saw the ballet Don Quixote.

Another highlight of out SPB visit was nhaving dinner with not ontly Natasha and her daughter, but a German traveler and a SPB resident at a very nice quiet Russian Restaurant. I will need to check the name on this restaurant. It was quite good. I esecially enjoyed their borsch.

After 5 days in SPB we were ready to move on. I will write more later.
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cyndy22
Lounge Wizard


Joined: 15 Oct 2004
Posts: 1076
Location: massachusetts

PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2005 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The restaurant I referred to in my above post is called Nikolaevskaya Trapeza (Nicholas's Meal). Thet have a web site. Nice quite place to have good Russian food and talk with friends. Prices were not terribly expensive.

St. Petersburg is a feast for the eyes. The churches, monuments, multitude of bridges, museums, parks and buildings are works of art in themselves. Walking around the city brings you to a different era in time. We also took a boat tour along the canals. It took about 1 hr. and 20 minutes and described in Russian, many of the buildings history and important events that occurred there. I think tickets for adult non Russians were about $15. Alex was either half price or free. I imagine there also must be canal tours in English.

We spent a day at the Hermitage, which is very grand but very crowed with large tour groups. This made it challenging to see important works of art. My 8 year old son was not enjoying this so after 4 hrs we went outdoors. Right outside the Hermitage in the large square, there were many very young Russian school children apparently taking part in pre-graduation festivities. The following Friday was there graduation and St. Petersburg made a huge celebration. The celebration would take place in that central area and most of the bridges were to not open that evening. There were fireworks etc. The city does a good job in recognizing young person's academic success.

I'll write more later.
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MrSpice
Lounge Wizard


Joined: 14 Jul 2003
Posts: 3431

PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2005 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would like to add that in the center, there are many beautiful, majestic views. There are quite a few good restaurants there now, especially in the center.
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need2know
Just Starting


Joined: 06 Jul 2005
Posts: 8
Location: Canada

PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2005 9:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I felt exactly the same when I went to SPB for the first time in 10 years in 2001.
I loved everything about SPB, the people, the sights, the food.

At first I had a bit of a language barrier, and was embarassed to talk in Russian (getting bitched out by a sales lady in a store for butchering the language didn't help either Smile ), but towards the end of my vacation I was fine and even managed to pick up a slight Russian accent.

My family was laughing at me, 'cause I was like a little kid, I wanted to see everything, go everywhere, and everything amazed me.

By my second week there, I dind't want to leave
I stayed there a little bit over a month, and still wasn't able to see everything that I wanted to.

When I went back there last september it was same thing all over agian.

Can't wait to go to SPB this september agian, getting goose bumps just thinking about it.

A.
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MrSpice
Lounge Wizard


Joined: 14 Jul 2003
Posts: 3431

PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2005 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I returned after 10 years and it is a huge difference. The city was dark, had almost no decent places to eat and stay and now it looks much more like a European city, at least in the center.
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need2know
Just Starting


Joined: 06 Jul 2005
Posts: 8
Location: Canada

PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2005 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MrSpice wrote:
I returned after 10 years and it is a huge difference. The city was dark, had almost no decent places to eat and stay and now it looks much more like a European city, at least in the center.


Oh yeah, totally. From what I remember of SPB before my visits there, is that it was gray and unwelcoming almost.
I lived in Lithuania since I was about 2, but we visited family in SPB once or twice a month, and I remember hating to go there.
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