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Akademgorodok
- Past and Present
25 kilometers
to the south of Novosibirsk center lies its most peculiar district.
Officially it is called Novosibirsk Scientific Center, but people
call it simply Academy Town (Akademgorodok). Much more quiet streets
and mostly modest houses in the dwelling area, numerous buildings
of scientific institutes, lots of green and people you can find
nowhere else - these are the main features of this place.
The history of Akademgorodok began more than 40 years ago. During
the Second World War, many factories were evacuated from the European
part of the Soviet Union beyond Ural, which gave an impact for industrial
development of Siberia. In the 50es the Soviet Government decided
to do the same with science and to establish the Siberian Branch
of Academy of Sciences, and Novosibirsk was chosen for its center.
The year 1957 is deemed to be the year of foundation of Akademgorodok.
Academician Lavrentiev became the first head of the Siberian Branch
and the founder of Akademgorodok. Like Peter the Great at the construction
of Saint-Petersburg, Lavrentiev came with the first builders into
the virgin forest, lived in a temporary hut, followed the construction
of first buildings and roads. Many people followed him - from established
and well-known scientists to recent graduates of the most prestigious
universities from Moscow and Leningrad. They where attracted by
the overwhelming sense of intellectual freedom, felt so acutely
in the post-Stalinist Soviet Union. 14 scientific institutes and
the Novosibirsk State University made the core of the emerging scientific
center.
In the 60ies Akademgorodok was the unique and fabulous place in
the Soviet Union. Here people dared to discuss the foundations of
Marxist theory, bring forward the ideas of economical reforms, read
books and listen to poets and singers not approved by the official
regime. Arguably, the first club in the Soviet Union appeared in
Akademgorodok. The names of streets of those times speak for themselves:
the main prospect was called "Science prospect", there
were Romantics, Pearl and Golden Valley streets, Children and Spring
lanes.
In the seventies, though, this time had ended. Communist party and
security organs took under control the life of this strange community
- not without the help of some of its members. Seventies and eighties
were the period
of stagnation in Akademgorodok, reflecting the processes in the
society. Once young people grew older, lost their illusions and
became trapped by everyday troubles. Problem of distribution of
goods and housing took place of the science in minds of people.
And still, some features distinguished Akademgorodok from the rest.
In the seventies started the tradition of celebrating the First
of May with great open-air concert on the stage in front of the
University building. This was the celebration of freedom and solidarity
with all the struggling people in the world, and on the stage were
not professional musicians, but envoys from communist youth from
all around the world. In the nineties, when it was done with communism
and international solidarity, this tradition transformed in great
musical festival, which visitors called "Woodstock in Siberia"
Collapse of the Soviet Union and reforms in Russia have changed
Akademgorodok as well. The governmental support for the science
has ended, and a lot of researchers left for Europe and the United
States, and those who did not either live on meager salary or collaborate
anyway with foreign partners. The place of scientists is taken by
businessmen and programmers, who made another "Silicon Valley"
of Akademgorodok. Today it is getting leadership in number of Wi-Fi
hotspots among all the cities of the former Soviet Union.
Useful
links:
Walking
around.
Akademgorodok is a
very compact place you can walk through in half an hour. Of course,
now there is a lot of neighboring districts, that can be thought
of as making a "Big Akademgorodok". It is quite pleasant
in the summer - just walk along the streets and courtyards (that
don't differ much)
watching trees in bloom and squirrels jumping from one branch to
another or sit in one of the street cafes. The main mall is called
Ilyicha street, but the locals call it Broadway. It is 10 minutes
walk long and all the main attractions - House of Scientists, cinema,
shops, a number of cafes and restaurants are situated there or nearby.
Akademgorodok is situated on the shore of an artificial Ob sea and
has a total of 15 kilometers of sandy beaches, of which the most
part are wild. Another favorite place for recreation is Botanical
garden with picturesque alleys and gardens. Akademgorodok is surrounded
mostly by fields and forests, so it is great place for cross-country
cycling, fishing and mushrooming. In winter there are great possibilities
for practicing cross-country and mountain ski.
Getting
there.
Though there is a regular
connection with the center of Novosibirsk, the most convenient way
to get to Akademgorodok is to take a taxi, which is 300 RUR (10$)
from Novosibirsk. Otherwise you can take bus #8 or minivan #15 at
Rechnoy Vokzal metro station. You can also take suburban train from
Novosibirsk-Glavny railway station direction "south" and
go to Obskoe More (Ob Sea) station. This way you get directly to
the beach, and there is 20 minutes walk to Akademgorodok itself.
Eating
Out and Entertainment
There are quite a few
bars, restaurants, cafes and clubs in Akademgorodok, and the list
below doesn't claim comprehensiveness. Generally 200-300 R (7-10$)
is enough to have good time in the places listed below, but having
more is never bad.
Vostok-Zapad
Wi-Fi cafe with moderate prices and good cuisine, situated
on the second floor of the Torgovy Tsentr (Trade Center). I wouldn't
call it cozy and it is often overcrowded.
Ilyicha str.2
Zhili-Byli
An instance of national chain of restaurants in Akademgordok.
Ilyicha str.2
Vilka-Lozhka
A cheap self-service eatery, also a part of national chain
Ilyicha str.2
New-York Pizza
Strives for high quality and has a touch of style. Has a cozy coffee
shop. Open 24 hours.
Morskoj Prospect, 54.
Art-Pub V
Situated in the University campus, is a favorite place for students
and student-like people. There play local bands; sometimes they
show movies or sport broadcasts.
Pirogova St., 14 (dormitory #5 of Novosibirsk State University)
http://pub5.nsu.ru
Neocom beach
In summer, one of the main places for going out. Beach, disco, billiard
visited by all sorts of local public. You can get there by taxi
- 40 R (1,5$) from Akademgorodok.
Bunker
Night club situated close to Akademgorodok. Favorite among teenagers.
Mousy Djalila str. 11 Tel. 39-79-14
Batisseur
Entertainment complex for every taste. Organizes everything from
matinees for children to strip-shows. Has bowling.
Prospect Stroitelej 17. Tel. 32-06-55.
House of Scientists
The main building of Akademgorodok. Has one of the best concert
halls in Novosibirsk, small hall, show-rooms, restaurant, basketball
hall. Many important events take place there: conferences, festivals,
concerts, exhibitions. Also hosts interest clubs: English, French,
German clubs, photographers' club, travelers' and gardeners' clubs
and many others.
Morskoj prospect 23 Tel. 30-17-80, 30-39-80 http://www.sbras.ru/sci-club/
Hotel Zolotaya Dolina (GoldenValley).
The only hotel in Akademgorodok. Simple but nice rooms with good
view on the forest. Rooms have showers, TV sets (B/W). Two stars
is the upper limit for this hotel. A restaurant with tainted reputation
downstairs. Rooms cost from 30$ to 200$
Ilyicha str.10 Tel. 30-36-09. http://gold-valley.academ.org
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